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  1. #1

    Default How to make BHO that will pass a lab test.

    There are many "BHO how to" threads but most get turned into a flamefest. That will not happen here i hope. This method is for the person wanting to make high grade medical extraction and the equipment i list is the least you will need and I recommend getting better but these are the basics. If i miss a simple but important step or make a typo mistake please let me know.

    Disclaimer: This is my method and as such the results I speak of are only valid for this process. It is possible to get the same results with other methods but for this thread all data corresponds to this method. If you have an issue with what or how I do this please keep it to your self. i have spent lots of time on this over the last year and I had lots of advanced math and science in school even if it was long ago. Thanks for your respect.


    equipment
    -point and shoot laser thermometer
    -pyrex dish 8x8, amazon ($16ea)
    -glass extraction tube local shop ($45ea)
    -coffee filters and rubber bands
    -power 5x butane, amazon ($30/case of 12)
    -oven
    -vaccum pump 1.5 cfm ac vac pump goes to -29inhg/14psi from amazon($90) I recomend a 2 stage but they cost more.
    -dehydrator amazon
    -electric hot pans for float dishes and the griddle for the vacuum oven, amazon ($40ea)
    -vaccum chamber round pollystirine($90) or converted pressure canning pot.

    The temp you use from start to finish will determin the finishing state. these temps are different for everyone but they are close. Shatter is under 110 wax around 120 honey/sap 140

    The different finishes
    -Shatter is the least activated and is usually made at temps under 100 but can be achieved up to 120.
    -Hard wax is slightly activated and is achieved at temps up to 140.
    -Honey is the purest and most activated and is achieved at temps up to 190.
    -Budder/hash/honey comb is not something I usually make as they are not stable and degrade fast. Also without expensive testing there is no way to know if there is butane or water in it.

    1. take the room dry trim/bud and dry it out in a dehydrator. Remember you want to run the dehydrator at a lower temp than you plan to finish with. Do this for at least 3 hours or longer. This is the step that makes it so clear and not black or green. If you are making big runs, you will want to use some freezer bags to hold the dehydrated bud as the dehydrator may not hold more than half pound or so like mine.

    This is why you dehydrate. Like the color?


    2. Now load the tubes packing the material as tight as you can placing 4 layers of coffee filter over the end and secure it with a rubber band or a zip tie. The tight packing is what provides for a high yield and also helps maintain a higher pressure in the tube keeping the butane a liquid longer.



    3. Set up the electric skillet and float the pyrex dish in it in water. make sure it is floating freely. Chose the temprature you want to use and start extracting. One 300ml can per ounce of material. Do this all at once with no pauses.
    Warning: Never spray into parchment paper or onto an oil slick pad. It causes the Silicone to swell and flake off into your extraction. Science fact here. Only use these items after the initial purge and there is no liquid butane present.


    4. OUTSIDE WITH FIRE EXTINGUISHERS READY!!!! Extract the cans through the cylinder all at once into the pyrex dish while its floating in the water. My cylinders are glass, 1.5" diameter, and 10 through 14 inches long. I use two float dishes and separate the first two from the third. The third is the clearest and the first two will knock you flat.


    5. Allow to purge in the float dishes until reaction slows or stops.

    6. Scrape the dish and transfer it to parchment paper or an oil slick and put it into vacuum/ pressure canner oven. Dont get stupid and try to put more than an ounce on a flat piece of paper and expect it wont end up off of the paper. Set the griddle at the desired temp using the thermometer to check your extraction at regular intervals to ensure it does not over heat. Once desired temp is reached let it sit until there is no reaction and surface is like glass. NO BUBBLES. The lower the temp the longer it will need to be purged.

    The poor mans vacuum oven. Its a pressure canner converted to hold a vacuum sitting on a presto griddle.


    After you let it sit and heat purge it will look like this.

    Now this looks really nice but what happens under -29inhg? So not as nice as it looked.

    Then after 10 hours at full vacuum and full temperature. Still not done.


    7. Vacuum purging.
    If you want a clean and safe product you will want to vacuum purge. There are many methods and you will want to do some trial and error but this is the general rule. Always wait to vacuum until there is no reaction at your target temperature to avoid excessive puffing. Never use parchment papre for honey oils, only hard finishes like waxes and shatters.

    Why we vacuum

    Not vacuumed

    After the vacuum.


    2 ounces after a vacuum. Clear enough for ya?


    How about this



    There are other methods for purging that does not use a vacuum chamber or heat. These use alcohol and are known as polar secondary extractions, or winterization. They can also be used to clean up your product by removing any lipids, waxes, fats and other non polar compounds you may not want in your product. I will cover this in another post.

    Why you dont spray onto PP or a silicone slick pad.
    Butane and silicone interaction.

    Chemical Compatibility Database from Cole-Parmer



    Compatibility of butane and Silicone
    Butane-Compatability-D-Severe Effect


    Ratings -- Chemical Effect
    A = Excellent.
    B = Good -- Minor Effect,
    slight corrosion or
    discoloration.
    C = Fair -- Moderate Effect,
    not recommended for
    continuous use. Softening,
    loss of strength,
    swelling may occur.
    D = Severe Effect, not recommended for ANY use.
    N/A = Information not
    available.


    So butane has sever effects on silicone and not recommended for ANY use. So dont get the two together if you dont want Si in your shit.

    Stay dabbed my friends.
    Last edited by stupidstuff; 12-12-2012 at 10:15 AM.

  2. #2
    from ashy to hashy budtacos's Avatar
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    incredible looking samples, welcome to TC!
    BHO - like turning water into wine

  3. #3

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    Thanks and I hope people find this a helpful thread and it answers some of the questions new BHO makers have.

  4. #4

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    I've always thought that higher temps produced shatter and lower temps produced more goo/taffy like erl. Your post says the opposite though. It has always been my experience at least.

    Also, rubberbands are definitely no bueno. Invest in a stainless-steel hose clamp friend!
    Any fool can know. The point is to understand.
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  5. #5
    OHGEETEECEEBHOEMCEE adept's Avatar
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    i like nuggets stuffed into tubes set to blast

    welcome to the city

    http://i948.photobucket.com/albums/ad324/adept_1ne/siggys.png

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpiralArchitect View Post
    I've always thought that higher temps produced shatter and lower temps produced more goo/taffy like erl. Your post says the opposite though. It has always been my experience at least.

    Also, rubberbands are definitely no bueno. Invest in a stainless-steel hose clamp friend!
    Nope, the lower temps make shatter, the higher temps make pull and snap hard waxes and honey. The more decarbed the extraction is, the more oily it is. I have extensive logs on grass city to show how the different temps make for different finishes. I would link to my log over on GS but this forum wont allow it.

    The rubber bands are only bad in theory. I agree they are not a good idea if they were in the flow of the butane but I dont feel they present a threat in there location. I dont see that they deposit anything into the extraction as there contact with the tane is mostly indirect. I guess it boils down to just how careful you want to be. As someone with lab experience and lots of BHO runs under my belt I still use rubber bands.

    But yes if this is a concern for the one making the extraction I would use a SS hose clamp.
    Last edited by stupidstuff; 12-03-2012 at 12:02 AM.

  7. #7

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    There are many many things I disagree with in your post, and some that are just straight dangerous!

    Your temperature to oil consistency rating concept is laughable, oil consistency has more to do with terpene content and curing methods than temp during purging. Decarboxylation occurs at much higher temperatures than 190*F, 375*F is the recommended temperature for decarbing.

    Your dehydrating of your flower claiming that it will stop the dark color makes little sense, I would go as far to say that the exact opposite occurs with heavily dried flowers. Fresh heads means clear colors...

    And the dangerous part, you clearly show that you are spraying into a pyrex on a double boil in an ELECTRIC hotplate! Also shows an electric fan behind the two pyrexs in the photo, scary shit buddy!
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spliff'o'matic View Post
    There are many many things I disagree with in your post, and some that are just straight dangerous!

    Your temperature to oil consistency rating concept is laughable, oil consistency has more to do with terpene content and curing methods than temp during purging. Decarboxylation occurs at much higher temperatures than 190*F, 375*F is the recommended temperature for decarbing.

    Your dehydrating of your flower claiming that it will stop the dark color makes little sense, I would go as far to say that the exact opposite occurs with heavily dried flowers. Fresh heads means clear colors...

    And the dangerous part, you clearly show that you are spraying into a pyrex on a double boil in an ELECTRIC hotplate! Also shows an electric fan behind the two pyrexs in the photo, scary shit buddy!
    I have lab testing to prove decarbing happens at lower temps. I never went over 180 in this batch. It is almost fully activated. I think you forget to consider that these things happen at lower temps under a vacuum.
    http://analytical360.com/m/concentrates/27053

    I dont want a argument and my pics speak for themselves. I keep a log of all conditions and temperatures used and at what points I do what I do. Its on grass city under my name. It make it hard to argue with me when I post all this data friend.

    The fact you dont understand that moisture is how chlorophyl gets into your extraction shows you dont understand the chemistry involved.

    The dangerous method I use has not resulted in a fire and i have made pounds and pounds of extractions this way. There is no danger of explosion in an open area with lots of ventilation. Hot plates dont use a flame and dont reach the temps needed to ignite butane nore will the fan unless the fumes build way up in an inclosed space.

    I wont allow flaming. You clearly have some info of your own but I have more than just words. I am trying to help people make a nice product that will pass a test in a lab. Plain and simple.
    Last edited by stupidstuff; 12-03-2012 at 12:40 AM.

  9. #9

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    I will repost some logs.

    Chem Dog Extraction

    -Relative humidity: 45%-55%

    -Dehydration temperature: 115-120

    -Dehydration time: 3 hours

    -Purge temps
    Water bath during extraction: 120-130 extracting two cans through each tube, and a third in a separate dish.
    Oven/vaccum oven: 140 for 2 hours then 180 for 5 min to get the water out and to get it clear. Then 140 for 10 hours prior to vaccuming.
    Vaccum temp: 140-150

    -Amount of starting product: estimated at 2-3 pounds.

    -Final yield: 192 grams. 6.7 ounces.

    -Notes
    In this run I kept the purge temp at 120-130 and increased the vaccum up to -26 inhg over an eight hour period. This resulted in a grainy texture that was not transparent. I heated it to 180-190 for about 5 minutes them drooped the temperature to 150 for 8 more hours at -5 inhg. After there was almost no reaction at this temperature and pressure I increased the vaccum every 20 minutes, checking for boil over each increase, until i got to -29 inhg with no reaction.

    The final consistency is like honey due to the higher temps i used to get it clear. It is the only way to be certain there is nothing unwanted in the extraction in many cases.

    Test results: http://analytical360.com/m/concentrates/27053



    AllenWrench Run Log
    -Relative humidity: 95%

    -Dehydration temperature: 115

    -Dehydration time: 1 hours

    -Purge temps/times
    Bath: 110-115 until reaction stops
    Oven: 120 for 8 hours
    Vaccum: 110 for 3 hours at -29inhg until no reaction.

    -Amount at starting point: about 2-3 lbs

    -Yield: About 6-7 ounces of extract

    -Final consistency: A touchable meltable solid that almost shatters.

    -Notes:
    In this run I kept the temperatures about 20 degrees lower to get a harder less oily texture and get a wax like appearance. I think I could lower the temp another 10 without turning it into a semi shatter wax. This batch turned out darker I suspect due to several reasons. 1 the product was very poorly trimmed. 2 It was nasty. 3 It was dark green. 4 it was only dehydrated for one hour instead of three. 5 It was older more mature buds and they seem to make a darker oil.


    Left over nugs and shake run.

    -Relative humidity: 80%

    -Dehydration temperature: 105

    -Dehydration time:2.5hours

    -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 7

    -Purge temps/times
    Bath: 110 until reaction stops. 1 hour
    Oven: 110-120/8 hours
    Vaccum: 110-120 until no reaction and consistency desired/ 4 hours. Then left at -29inhg and 100 for 8 more hours to ensure no impurities.

    -Amount at starting point: about 1.5 lbs

    -Yield: 160 grams from 7 packed glass tubes.

    -Final consistency: A grainy touchable wax.

    -Notes: Today I am trying to drop the temp another 10 degrease or so to get a slightly harder consistency. But the temp crept up to 120 accidently during the purge so it looks like it will still be a simisolid. I am trying to get it as close to shatter without it actually shattering as possible. I am doing a three cans of power 7x butane per glass tube extraction without separating them.


    Old and new shake, no buds only shake and leaves. Some is over a year old.

    -Relative humidity: 80%

    -Dehydration temperature: 115

    -Dehydration time:2.5hours

    -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 6

    -Purge temps/times
    Bath: 120-130 until reaction stops. 1 hour
    Oven: 120-130/8 hours
    Vaccum: 120/2 hours

    -Amount at starting point: about 1.5 lbs

    -Yield: 90 grams

    -Final consistency: hard wax.

    -Notes: In this run I am doing a bunch of leaves and trim so I expect it to turn out really dark. I dont know what the final consistency will be as this batch is for a friend and it will be up to him.



    This is a mix of the buds from the lower 1/3 of my plants this year.
    -Relative humidity: 45% (controlled indoors)

    -Dehydration temperature: 110

    -Dehydration time: 4 at least hours

    -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 5

    -Purge temps/times
    Bath: 110
    Oven: 140/8 hours
    Vacuum: 140/8 hours at -28inhg Then setting.
    Setting/packaging: 140/ 4 hours and a 10 min vacuum.

    -Amount at starting point: 1.5lbs

    -Yield: 150 grams

    -Final consistency: Semi hard wax

    -Notes: In this run I am doing a bunch of lower branch buds. They were only finger trimmed. I am extending the dehydration time by an extra hour to see if I can get a better color. The color may not be as good as it could be as there is quite a bit of trim left on the buds in a finger trimming.

  10. #10

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    Left overs run


    Purge temps:
    Bath:110 until it started to bubble/puff up really good, maybe 10 min, then i whipped it with a fork and removed it from the heat. I continued to whip it for 5 min.
    Oven: N/A
    Vacuum: Then i put it into the vac chamber and went to -20inhg and released the vacuum. Then i went to -29inhg for 10 min. After releasing the vacuum I scraped the dish.

    Number of glass tubes run: 1

    yield: 20 grams Nice single tube yield

    Notes:
    This used no heat and is the first time I have attempted to make shatter/hard wax without any heat after the initial bath with success. I think the reason is I usually do large batches and this is harder to do with a larger amount of product to purge as it puffs up to much. The bubles in the finished product were aquired during scraping and packaging and if I were to make this for patient consumption I would use a small amount of heat around 100 and leave it under a vacuum over night to remove the last bubles. But it melts without sizzle and no butane flavor.

    New batch: year old trim and buds. I dont judge what people bring me and it usually turns out nice.

    -Relative humidity: 90%

    -Dehydration temperature: 120

    -Dehydration time:3hours

    -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 7

    -Purge temps/times
    Bath: 110 until it starts to puff up then whipped it for 5 min.
    Oven: N/A for the shatter,
    Vaccum: Shatter:full vacuum at a temp of 100 then release, did it several time with 20 min intervals for each stage. Hard wax: full vacuum for 4 hours at a temp of 110-120. Then at a temp of 100 I vacuumed and folded on PP at 20 min intervals just like the shatter.

    -Amount at starting point, dehydrated: 1.5 lbs

    -Yield: 120 grams

    -Final consistency: Hard wax/shatter per request

    -Notes:In this run i used some leaves, shake, trim, and bud from the 2011 harvest. It is darker than i usually make but considering it was 50% leaves I think it came out nice. It has a grassy but pleasant taste and strong effects.


    New batch: leaf/Trim and bud 50/50 mix

    -Relative humidity: 95% (raining)

    -Dehydration temperature: 125

    -Dehydration time:3hours

    -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 6

    -Purge temps/times
    Bath: 110 for 1 hour
    Oven: 2 hours at 110
    Vaccum: at a temp of 120 and a vacuum of -29inhg it was left for 24 hours.

    -Amount at starting point, dehydrated: 1 lbs

    -Yield: 95 grams

    -Final consistency: shatter

    -Notes: This batch turned out like a nice hard shatter with a good color. I did not whip this batch and as you notice it took longer to purge it but it turns out a little better tasting, for a shatter.
    I got lazy today and dont feel like doing a photo shoot. So these crappy pics will have to do.






    Now that you see I keep important data on every extraction I make, care to argue with me?

 

 

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