There are many "BHO how to" threads but most get turned into a flamefest. That will not happen here i hope. This method is for the person wanting to make high grade medical extraction and the equipment i list is the least you will need and I recommend getting better but these are the basics. If i miss a simple but important step or make a typo mistake please let me know.
Disclaimer: This is my method and as such the results I speak of are only valid for this process. It is possible to get the same results with other methods but for this thread all data corresponds to this method. If you have an issue with what or how I do this please keep it to your self. i have spent lots of time on this over the last year and I had lots of advanced math and science in school even if it was long ago. Thanks for your respect.
-point and shoot laser thermometer
-pyrex dish 8x8, amazon ($16ea)
-glass extraction tube local shop ($45ea)
-coffee filters and rubber bands
-power 5x butane, amazon ($30/case of 12)
-vaccum pump 1.5 cfm ac vac pump goes to -29inhg/14psi from amazon($90) I recomend a 2 stage but they cost more.
-electric hot pans for float dishes and the griddle for the vacuum oven, amazon ($40ea)
-vaccum chamber round pollystirine($90) or converted pressure canning pot.
The temp you use from start to finish will determin the finishing state. these temps are different for everyone but they are close. Shatter is under 110 wax around 120 honey/sap 140
The different finishes
-Shatter is the least activated and is usually made at temps under 100 but can be achieved up to 120.
-Hard wax is slightly activated and is achieved at temps up to 140.
-Honey is the purest and most activated and is achieved at temps up to 190.
-Budder/hash/honey comb is not something I usually make as they are not stable and degrade fast. Also without expensive testing there is no way to know if there is butane or water in it.
1. take the room dry trim/bud and dry it out in a dehydrator. Remember you want to run the dehydrator at a lower temp than you plan to finish with. Do this for at least 3 hours or longer. This is the step that makes it so clear and not black or green. If you are making big runs, you will want to use some freezer bags to hold the dehydrated bud as the dehydrator may not hold more than half pound or so like mine.
This is why you dehydrate. Like the color?
2. Now load the tubes packing the material as tight as you can placing 4 layers of coffee filter over the end and secure it with a rubber band or a zip tie. The tight packing is what provides for a high yield and also helps maintain a higher pressure in the tube keeping the butane a liquid longer.
3. Set up the electric skillet and float the pyrex dish in it in water. make sure it is floating freely. Chose the temprature you want to use and start extracting. One 300ml can per ounce of material. Do this all at once with no pauses.
Warning: Never spray into parchment paper or onto an oil slick pad. It causes the Silicone to swell and flake off into your extraction. Science fact here. Only use these items after the initial purge and there is no liquid butane present.
4. OUTSIDE WITH FIRE EXTINGUISHERS READY!!!! Extract the cans through the cylinder all at once into the pyrex dish while its floating in the water. My cylinders are glass, 1.5" diameter, and 10 through 14 inches long. I use two float dishes and separate the first two from the third. The third is the clearest and the first two will knock you flat.
5. Allow to purge in the float dishes until reaction slows or stops.
6. Scrape the dish and transfer it to parchment paper or an oil slick and put it into vacuum/ pressure canner oven. Dont get stupid and try to put more than an ounce on a flat piece of paper and expect it wont end up off of the paper. Set the griddle at the desired temp using the thermometer to check your extraction at regular intervals to ensure it does not over heat. Once desired temp is reached let it sit until there is no reaction and surface is like glass. NO BUBBLES. The lower the temp the longer it will need to be purged.
The poor mans vacuum oven. Its a pressure canner converted to hold a vacuum sitting on a presto griddle.
After you let it sit and heat purge it will look like this.
Now this looks really nice but what happens under -29inhg? So not as nice as it looked.
Then after 10 hours at full vacuum and full temperature. Still not done.
7. Vacuum purging.
If you want a clean and safe product you will want to vacuum purge. There are many methods and you will want to do some trial and error but this is the general rule. Always wait to vacuum until there is no reaction at your target temperature to avoid excessive puffing. Never use parchment papre for honey oils, only hard finishes like waxes and shatters.
Why we vacuum
After the vacuum.
2 ounces after a vacuum. Clear enough for ya?
How about this
There are other methods for purging that does not use a vacuum chamber or heat. These use alcohol and are known as polar secondary extractions, or winterization. They can also be used to clean up your product by removing any lipids, waxes, fats and other non polar compounds you may not want in your product. I will cover this in another post.
Why you dont spray onto PP or a silicone slick pad.
Butane and silicone interaction.
Chemical Compatibility Database from Cole-Parmer
Compatibility of butane and Silicone
Ratings -- Chemical Effect
A = Excellent.
B = Good -- Minor Effect,
slight corrosion or
C = Fair -- Moderate Effect,
not recommended for
continuous use. Softening,
loss of strength,
swelling may occur.
D = Severe Effect, not recommended for ANY use.
N/A = Information not
So butane has sever effects on silicone and not recommended for ANY use. So dont get the two together if you dont want Si in your shit.
Stay dabbed my friends.